Make way for the Wedding Party

Tomorrow morning Ohana will be off the dock at April Point. The current of the flood tide will pulse at a maximum near 6:30am in Discovery Passage. The plan is to ride the speedy current south and fish the Hump, the southern tip of Quadra Island. The salmon are said to be thick and everywhere. In addition, Sockeye sport fishing begins tomorrow. Getting an early start will afford some fishing time en route to Hornby Island, fifty miles to the south in the Strait of Georgia.
The time at April Point has been productive and relaxing. Progress was made on Ohana's bright work, the bike was cleaned and tuned, water tank filled, groceries procured and a couple of bike rides under the wheels. Jazz night at the lodge and a good salmon dinner topped the stay.
Anyway the place is about to get crowded as a wedding party has rented the resort for the entire weekend. Massive, well appointed ships with polished hulls have already arrived.
With a tip of the hat, Ohana will slip into the rippling current and bid the new couple a most prosperous future which, from all appearances, may not be a stretch…so happiness and a fulfilling life could be more appropriate.
Now let's find some salmon.

Feed Me

Very plump seal waits at the sushi bar. The man holding the empty bag has just dropped salmon trimmings from the cleaning station into the water by the dock at April Point. The seal then dives to pick up the scraps. However, I noticed that this seal spent more time playing with it's food than eating it. This appears to be an experiment in overeating habits of the seal. This fellow may have reached his limit.

Quadra Island Ferries

 Arriving Drew Harbour

Arriving Quathiaski Cove from Campbell River

BC ferries provide regular inter-island travel for commuters, local errand runners and of course, visitors. Schedules highlight the commuter runs and ask for visitors to try to avoid these if possible as the ship's space can be limited. Also, there are runs dedicated to hauling "dangerous cargo" (no passengers allowed). 

The ferries pictured above serve the two sides of Quadra Island. On the east side, the run between Drew Harbour (protected by Rebecca Spit) and Whaletown on Cortes Island is relatively calm except in big Southeast blows. On the west, the ferry between Campbell River and Quathiaski Cove crosses Discovery Passage and must traverse currents which, just a short distance away in Seymour Narrows, can regularly pump at velocities exceeding 10 knots. Watching this particular crossing to Quathiaski, the current was roaring and erratic as the skipper brought the ferry in close along the shore, approaching the dock like a seasoned bush pilot landing in a small clearing with little margin for error. Now that's seamanship!

Tanned Beauty

This morning may be French toast. The tanned beauty pictured above was procured at the Gorge Harbour grocery and has been providing the thick, moist frames for delicious lunchtime sandwiches. Another tribute to the quality of healthy food found at Gorge.

Bonaparte's Gull

While fending off the salmon in Plunger Passage, there was ample time to observe a few Bonaparte's gulls. This particular individual photographed above, appears to be immature, not because he is mooning, but because he is displaying a pronounced cheek patch.  Not yet wearing the black hood of the adult.

Leaving Rebecca Spit

 Rebecca Spit in early morning light

 Leaving Rebecca Spit the milky mountains of mainland BC tower over Desolation Sound

Fisherman busily deploy a large drifting net along the southeastern shore of Quadra Island

Not Mad at Fish

Clearing skies and light Southeast breeze made for a comfortable sail from Plunger Passage to Rebecca Spit. A few aggressive rock fish and one sizable greenling to show for the late morning fishing. I returned them, as the quarry was the elusive salmon.  In desperation and possibly with some boredom, I was trying all depths and voila, bottom fish! But the sailing was very calming to my fishing nerves. The wind played with the sails and I repeated the mantra of a renowned and retired Missouri fisherman, "I'm not mad at fish anymore." Rebecca Spit is off the port bow with the setting sun and I imagine a fine curried chicken.

Exiting the Gorge Corridor

Exiting the narrow cliff-lined fairway from Gorge Harbour. The currents are noticeable but stay in the deep water and better things happen. Sailing through the passage can be fun but winds are fickle in such close confines…as I discovered on my way in with an untimely tack needed while skirting around the final rocky obstacle to the inner harbor. Power through and enjoy the view.

The Last Gosling

Yesterday morning, while waiting for the laundry, I strolled about the Gorge grounds. Down by the waterfront a family of three Canadian geese was busy feeding where the fresh water spillway emptied into the low tide water of the harbour. Two adults and one gray fluffy gosling poked around peacefully but with purpose at the water's edge. I thought how this gosling had escaped the demise befallen its nest mates. How many brothers and sisters had there been? Probably five or maybe eight? What predators had reduced this family to one offspring?  This remaining youngster was now nearly half the size of its parents but still appeared awkward and attempted to mimic its parents behaviors with hopeful approval. I thought this gangly goose would likely survive, now being relatively large.

Later in the evening while taking in the harbor from the cockpit after sundown, I spied the trio of geese paddling around a nearby boat at anchor. Perhaps they had become accustomed to handouts and were out for an evening snack. They meandered along the smooth surface curiously but cautiously looking at the boat. It was as if they were trying to be noticed but not wanting to seem intrusive. Polite geese. Very Canadian.

Out of the corner of my eye I noticed a large bird winging its way across the harbour. As it approached, I thought it might be a large heron. Upon closer observation, its profile became more distinct against the pastel sky. It was some sort of raptor. Ha, it was an eagle. The evening was turning into a grand display of wildlife.  I watched as the eagle flew along when suddenly it put on the air brakes. Now that's strange. Quickly it tucked its wings, made a half spiral turn with head downward and I thought "Oh no". Yes, the eagle was heading directly for the geese. Meanwhile the adults had outstretched their necks, low and threatening while corralling their young tightly between their bodies. The predator was diving with speed and clear intent. The talons were outstretched. With only a few feet between its sharp claws and the down of the gosling, the eagle flared away. Perhaps the posturing and likely the proximity to the boat had been just barely enough to avoid disaster. The eagle flew on to alight in a rough gray crag of a pine tree across the bay. The geese resumed their meandering beggary almost as though nothing out of the ordinary had just occurred. The very plump eagle sat watching.

Ambience at Gorge

 Early morning aboard. Coffee by oil lamp. Welcoming warmth

 The immaculate grounds at Gorge invite relaxing meandering. Adirondak chairs, various benches and tables, barbeque grills and picnic tables are thoughtfully organized

Pecan dessert topped with 'ground cherry' (physalis) and of course a la mode. Served at the Floathouse restaurant.

Thus another day at the Gorge. Laundry done and bread purchased. Chatting with a few sailors. One family from Kauai was hunkered in the laundry room for warmth. Now back aboard listening to the local radio tunes and news and catching up on the blog and world events.  Beginning to get a little anxious to haul up and sail on. Tomorrow could be time to top off the fuel and head north.

Neighborhood diversity

Early morning light reveals a few approaches to a common interest.

Kayakers in the rain

Trekking kayakers enter Gorge Harbour late in the soggy afternoon on Wednesday. Rain has been steady and frequently very determined since beginning around noon. It is now early morning Thursday. The clouds hover low over the water. Rainfall has abated. The night however  saw persistent lines of strong fronts throw barrages of water and wind across the small bay.

South winds are predicted today the full length of the Strait of Georgia. "Strong wind warnings" are in effect. This official designation is prompted by wind velocities between 10 -15 knots. The warning seems a usual state for the Strait. Good advice to be sure as the sea state can be riled by such a sustained blow.

Ship's Solar Juice

Solar Panels installed this year are keeping up with ship's power consumption. Four SunForce crystalline panels are perched atop the bimini's tubular stainless frame. Two 60 watt and two 85 watt panels straddle the back stays and leave a central gap for viewing sails, mast and boom through a clear window sewn into the canvas. The number and size of the panels was selected for fit with the contour and border of the bimini yet still maximizing the output. The bigger panels are rated at 4.9 amps, which basically means these panels each could theoretically generate that level of power during maximum sunlight exposure. For practical purposes, I calculated about 50% of maximum due to angle of sun, random shadows of boom and mainsail. Thus about 10 amps as an average output for the array during peak daylight hours. In fact, with cloudless skies, the panels collectively start generating about 1 amp just after sunrise which climbs quickly to 5-7 amps midmorning. Midday the output can spike up to 14 amps but because the ship's battery bank is topped off by this level of recharging, the controller ratchets back the surplus output.
Typical ship's requirements include fridge/freezer, chartplotter, radio, autopilot, tridata electronics which  collectively consume about 3-8 amps, depending on the fridge. Key is to pack the freezer at least 70% full. When the compressor is "on" the fridge draws about 5 amps alone.
In conclusion, this array works well for the ship. It should be noted that radar, if needed for long stretches, could tap the system beyond its limits.  However, in those cases, it may be likely to have the engine assisting.

Gorge Harbour

Gorge Harbour was packed and busy. It has become quite the destination especially since the docks and grounds were given a makeover a few years back.  The restaurant is a main attraction for many with local produce supplying a creative selection of salads. Today I am supplementing my boat fare with a "Curious Greens" lunch dish on the deck overlooking the anchorage. Then it will be back to rice, beans and chicken from the galley.

Notice the old school dry dock for bottom work. Lashing their vessel to the dock, these sailors take advantage of a 14 foot tide hitting the nadir during comfortable daylight hours in the morning.

Northing under full sail

Leaving Hornby was a good idea. The south winds picked up the seas on the Strait of Georgia making for a fast run to Desolation Sound. The blow peaked at 22 knots and running with the wind waves under full sails was exhilarating. As I approached Cortes, another sail crossed on a fine beam reach.

Tribune Beach low tide

Kayakers arrived on the expansive beach at Tribune taking advantage of the low tide.

Tribune morning

SE winds subsided overnight. The morning was tranquil at Tribune Bay on the southern exposure of Hornby Island. The silence was broken however by most unexpected visitors. I popped up from the galley to shouts, squeals and much splashing finding a 45 foot sailboat had arrived nearby, engine idling while three large, white skinned, gray haired adults in speedos splashed rigorously in the cold water and shouted at each other in what I assumed was Swedish. They clamored back on board and exited the bay as quickly as they had arrived. Maybe I should try this instead of coffee.

Lumber Process

Lumber processing was in full swing south of the entrance to Nanaimo. Never have I seen this facility so active. The opposing shore was lined with floating logs and workers actively arranging the massive array.

Leaving Montague

The clouds from last evening were in fact harbingers of the damp weather to come. The route to north to Dodd Narrows up Trincomali Channel is strewn with islets and rocks. The currents can be fickle with back eddies but I was able to make Dodd by 11am after hauling anchor at 7:15am earlier in the morning. The passage through Dodd was uneventful (the best result) even though jumping ahead of the slack by a good 90 minutes.

Duff Day

Dictionary of Newfoundland English
duff¹ n EDD ~ sb¹ 1 esp Co quot; DAE 1 (1838-) for sense 1; for comb in sense 2: Centduff-day 'on board ship, Sunday.'

duff day: day of the week when a boiled pudding is customarily served at the main meal.

When I was much younger, I had the experience of attending a canoeing camp in Northern Wisconsin. The camp took pride in teaching the traveling ways of old canoe voyagers, French fur traders and the like. Campers would embark on several voyages during the course of the summer Long days on the paddle, tough portages with heavy gear. Everyone with a task.  Camp would be broken as breakfast was underway. Canoes packed, meal down and paddle on. Sounds a bit spartan but actually very grabbing for young men with a lot of energy. Then would come the revered "Duff Day". After several travel days and many miles through the thick back country of the north woods, we would take a day off. There was still order around the meals but otherwise the day was unstructured and very pleasant. Much in the fashion of the New England merchant sailors who were supposed to be granted Sunday as a day off. However, often was the habit that the ships owners would organize the ship's schedule such that the sailors were actually underway on Sundays and thus they would get "free" sailing day which otherwise would be given over to the less fortunate sailing crew.

Here at Montague, I have arranged with the ship's owner to provide duff days at will and with no concern for loss of way or commercial opportunity. Here at the cafe, perhaps a serving of boiled pudding would do.

Weather Change

The sun disappears behind the building cloud bank. First evening in the week without the unfiltered bright plunge to the horizon. The wind in fact changed today blowing 30 knots from the south out on the strait of Georgia. A couple arriving earlier today to Montague in a 42 foot Grand Bank and later found in the afternoon on the deck of the marina's cafe reported the blowy conditions from leaving the refuge of Deep Bay. They were forced to this rather sleepy hollow a day earlier in lieu of the picturesque anchorage of Tribune Bay on the south facing sandy shores of Hornby Island. But the south wind should not be trifled with in Tribune Bay and they were wise to take this tack. The winds had shifted a bit earlier than predicted and they were glad to be done with plowing south through the teeth of the breeze. After sharing a few stories, I was prompted to check weather sources and confirmed the south wind would continue for a couple of days. I still have an eye on Schooner Cove tomorrow as I should make good time with tide and wind in favor. But rainy weather could be in store.

Marine Medics of the Gulf Islands

Occasionally, one may see a medical vessel or helicopter in the vicinity. A couple of years ago i witnessed a medivac helicopter make a very technical landing on the north shore at Monatague Provinvcial Park over sailboats and just barely avoiding the tall trees along the narrow beach. Its good to know that medical assistance is around but hopefully never finding yourself needing to make the call.

http://firstaidforbc.com/blog/2013/07/24/marine-medics-of-the-gulf-islands/

The water ambulance has the same equipment as a land based ambulance, including stretcher rack, spine boards, oxygen, and Entonox gas for pain relief.  In the most critical cases a medevac helicopter will be dispatched and in extreme weather the Canadian Coast Guard provides the ultimate backup to both ASHLEY and B.C. Ambulance Service helicopters.

Dawn at Montague

The morning is peaceful. Quiet. Seaweed and various natural debris is strewn about suspended motionless on the slack surface. Wandering in on the night's high tide like tired sailors returning from carousing in town and now sleeping where they collapsed. The coffee is hot, black and strong.

Planning for Dodd Narrows. The first time through Dodd was met with much anxiety.  Stories of wild pulsing currents pushing 10 knots, a massive amount of water through a channel barely wide enough for two small ships passing with a rock strewn shoreline ready to rasp the hull of the ship with insufficient power to stay on course and in the narrow main channel all the while being pulled and pushed by the maniacal water. We proceeded with extreme caution and ensured we were in line for slack tide well in advance of this brief respite during which time the narrows turns from a river to a calm meandering inlet of sorts. Since this initial experience, Ohana has made many passings through Dodd, including a midnight journey a couple of years ago. That was a father and son voyage in which such challenges were met or actually sought out with a certain desire to get personal with Mother Nature. A full moon peeked in and out of scattered high clouds as we waited for two large tugs to exit the south entrance to the narrows with their oversized log pull. Once they were clear, we proceeded into the dark narrow passage as the trailing tug turned its flood light up channel evidently to provide a clearer line of sight. Visibility was marginal at best, Austin was positioned at the bow keeping an eye for stray logs while I confirmed our course on screen with the navigation electronics. Soon we were making way past Nanaimo and out into the Strait of Georgia for our run up to Dent Island.
This morning,around 6:00am, I noticed a couple of rafted sails both upped anchor and headed smartly off to the north through the channel between Gray Peninsula and the isthmus of Parker Island. Given the tide changed to flood at 3:30am, it was a safe bet they were en route for the 9:45am slack at Dodd. Dodd is roughly 18 nautical miles from Montague and with tide assistance a sailboat under power can make that run in less than three hours. I wondered about their plans once through the narrows.  The NW wind is expected blow 25 knots this afternoon.  Perhaps they would drop anchors at Newcastle or tie up in Nanaimo. However, if heading north to Desolation, they could be up for a brisk sail to weather but may be better advised to wait one more day when the wind swings around and is expected to blow 10-15 knots from the South. With the south wind comes the increased chance of wet weather, but my plan is to haul up tomorrow roughly at 7:00am and follow my fellow mariners to the north. Dodd slack will be at 11:04am and could easily be run prior as the current is not so severe. Nevertheless, Dodd must be respected at all times! Northwesting through Dodd, I prefer to sweep in from the east side and follow the natural current. As a matter of course, it is advised to leave ample room between vessels as more than one ship is likely to be making this run. Announcing your entrance on VHF 16 is also a good idea. "Securite, securite, securite. All vessels be advised, 40 foot sail entering Dodd Narrows northbound". Then, if current, and preferably there will be some residual northbound current, run it like a river. Stay center channel and anticipate the changes in direction by pointing early.  For control, it helps to be going faster than the flow. Not everyone approached the run with the same strategy, so again, leave plenty of room. A final comment, if you miss the slack, relax and go do something else for six hours. You don't want to proceed against current through Dodd in a sailing vessel. Once I saw a 45 foot trawler try to power against the flow and was pushed around like a toy boat and nearly run aground. Only barely escaping a potentially ugly ending…giving all waiting vessels quite a show!

Wind picked up today around 11am. I rowed the dinghy against a stiff breeze returning from shore leave. After securing the dinghy on the aft davits, I surveyed the situation. Seemed the ship forward and mostly off the port bow was closer than before. The wind has a way of showing the scope of one's ground tackle. It gets stretched. I started the engine and prepared to release more chain. After all, I was anchored with very minimal scope but often customary in close quarters. The ships had thinned out, so I released another fifty feet of chain. My scope was now likely 5:1 in 35 feet of water with 20 kts of breeze and half foot wind waves.  I let out a bit of the main and threw the helm alee and seemed to be situated with ample space and minimal wandering. Now back to the blog.

Float Plane activity at Montague.  A couple of flights per day arrive and take off at the dock.  

A few reasons to be vigilant with line of sight. Some obstacles are invisible on ship's electronics. Coursing through Captains Passage between Athol Island to the north and Prevost Island to the south with a tide change in progress, I noticed considerable debris in the water. Quickly snapped a couple of pics and noticed the extent of debris merited equally quick attention to the helm.  The surface debris is one thing, but submerged debris can be a bigger issue. When approaching tide lines keep a watchful eye.

Canadian Customs dock - Bedwell Harbour, South Pender Island… or as noticed, S.pender island.  Which given the presence of Poets Cove would be easy to feel the irony in the name. The customs process is simple. Find dock space, amenable to the wind and current.  There are a few options. Tie off and the skipper proceeds up the dock to the telephones.  Crew, if any, remain on board per regulations. The bank of phones are collocated near the office which is seemingly never occupied. Pick up a phone and it directs dials customs (likely in Sidney). Ships registration ID, number of crew, a few miscellaneous questions regarding alcohol, firearms, currency in excess of $10,000 Canadian and various fresh foods and your last port prior to entry and length of stay and you will receive a customs number to jot down and off you go.

While I wait for photos and videos to back up to the new and suspicious external hard drive, thought I'd revisit the theme of this voyage. Sea Change. Ok a play on C-Change.  Most likable affiliation I noticed was a "Glasgow based organization committed to supporting real positive changes in the lives of individuals…" Although I like where I've come from, I would like to "build on the momentum". This was a catch phrase I picked up from working with IDEO a few years back.  IDEO is a Palo Alto based firm  dedicated to innovating around human behaviors. Anyway, as one turns the page…opens a new chapter…reinvents or even course-corrects, there is some exposure. You may feel naked, out of place, even a bit vulnerable. F'get about it. The feeling that is. The family was all recently in Hawaii and as I watched the massive waves approach shore I thought how people approach their golden, silver or rusty years. The following came to mind and really could apply to any sort of Sea Change:

Salty Frothy

The incessant march

Phalanxes of blue swells

Rhythmic orderly inevitable

White tipped as the end nears

Once tall now hunching

Sometimes stumbling tumbling

But ever moving forward

Some weaken, interest waning, shape melting

And then gone

Others long white manes flowing

Wind blown

Approach the end with weight and force

Their final statement loud and profound

Biking from Montague Harbor to Sturdies Bay on Galiano Island. Great road.  Only a few rough patches. Be prepared for hills. No hooves and horns but legs and lungs will help… and climbing gears. GoPro video captured the descent to Sturdies but still having some issues posting video to blogger. Posted instead to Facebook the descent into Montague Harbour…nearly into the harbour. Quite a fun ride and great workout. Get the salt out of your sea legs and lungs, trade off your yoga mat and take an hour on the pavement with a set of wheels. I'm in off season shape (seems a permanent condition) but I would rate this ride a 7 on the cardio scale of 1-10. Anecdote for perspective: A local hiking down the Montague hill near the base observed me mashing the pedals, said "hey, you got it going on, most riders get off the bike here". Not knowing the extent of the climb, I refused to get off, and later found that was about one tenth of the way to the top. A nap could be in order this afternoon.

Images from Bedwell and Poets Cove. Comfortably on the hook in 15 meters.

Turn Point lighthouse on Stuart Island with 3+ kts of flood current. Crossing of Juan de Fuca was fog bound at first and completed with riding the strong rip current along SW San Juan coast accompanied by several Orcas. A good crossing by any measure. Bedwell would be reached by 7:30 pm after 12 hours underway.

Leaving Seattle. Northbound